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Peak Mountain 3

Spire-A-Jyra

FA Alvino Pon
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a new Alvino Pon route. "Right Arete" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

From the ledge with the big tree, scramble up a loose gully to a small ledge on the right side of the Spire. The first bolt is about 10' above this ledge.

Follow a line of 5 bolts and 2 pins up the arete to the top. A #1 Camalot can be placed after the third bolt, and the second pin can be backed up with a #.75 Camalot.

The moves up the arete are fun 5.8 to 5.9.

The crux is at the top: a bulging overhang, with a reachy move to get past it. The difficulty of this move is height-dependent, and may be harder than 5.10a for shorter people.

The leader can belay the second from a good ledge with a 2-bolt anchor at the top. Rappel 80' back to the start.

Two stars for clean rock, good moves, airy position, and an exciting crux.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 pins, plus several medium cams (#.75 and #1 Camalots). 2-bolt anchor at the top.