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Description
This is an excellent climb up a large chunk of rock. It has several interesting pitches with a lot of variety. It is mostly well protected, but it's no sport climb, with a few sporty sections. Getting to the first bolt on pitch 5 is heads up with ankle breaker potential. The sixth pitch is stellar, one of the best pitches at P-Line. There are several variations one can do for pitch one, other than the original described here.
P1 (10c/d) Horizontal Cracks Pitch . Climb past several horizontal cracks then up thin face move to a ledge. Clip anchor, jog left then back right and up to a bolt leading to a nice splitter finger crack to a bolted belay/rap station.
P2 (5.10 move) In Your Face Traverse Pitch. This short pitch is mostly a class 2 traverse to get to pitch 3. You will be surprised by what appears to be a short 4th class section. from P1 anchor traverse 100' right to a 2 bolt belay.
P3 (10a) The Shiny Path of Hope Pitch. From the belay, face climb to and up a vertical crack. Then follow the shiny path of hope(several bolts) up to another bolted belay/rap
station.
P4 (5.9) Scary Giant Flake Pitch. Climb up to the left side of a large pillar following it to a nice ledge w/a bolted belay/rap station.
P5 (10b) Black Bolt of Death Pitch. From the top of the pillar traverse left to a bolt(don't fall here). Continue left to another bolt. Climb up and right to a black bolt then up to a bolted belay/rap station below a large flake.
P6 (11a) Undercling Pitch. This pitch is stellar. Bust out several thin friction moves working left and up to the large flake. undercling out right to the end of the flake then follow a few well spaced bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station.
P7 (10a) Backwards SSS Pitch. From pitch 6 belay, move up and right passing a couple of bolts. Then right to another bolt. Continue right to a flake bulge. Pull through the bulge, then follow bolts back left to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. Watch the rope drag on this pitch.
P8 easy to the top
Can rap the route w/1 60m rope. At the top of p3 swing climbers left to an alternate rap station.
There are several options/routes to start on for pitch one.
Location
A bit left and uphill of Dangling Chads and just right of Flying in the Mountains.
Protection
Pro to a #4 Camalot, draws and several shoulder length runners.
Routes in Aa. Parkline Slab
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