Warm Up

Crack and face moves up the middle of the slab. Difficulties are usually around bolts and are well protected. An obvious flake marks the start of this climb that is longer than it looks.

Apparently there are two pitches following the first, but I only did the first. They are described as Pitch 2: 5.8 and Pitch 3: 5.9, both protected similarly to the first pitch.

According to some big shot master of old five ten moderates, the rest of the beta is as follows:

70m rope IS mandatory.

the first pitch is by far the best/most fun, the second pitch is fair, the third pitch has 15' of really fun climbing the rest is fair.

left anchor bolt (1/2') on p2 has a loose nut. no, finger tightening doesn't do much.

p3 anchor is strangely high off a perfect ledge

it's a full 35m rap from the top of p3 to the top of p1. knot ends on rope!

there is a bunch of loose stuff (lying around, not necessarily the stuff you're climbing) on the 2nd and 3rd pitch (watch rope) 1

Between the arete climbs of Gold Fever and Goldie Locks, a flake system splitting the start of this climb on the generally SW facing aspect marks the start.

Bolts, fingers to a 3" cam (single rack will do), and a large piton about halfway up. Bolted anchor with mussy hooks. 70 meter rope is probably mandatory.