- Edit (TBD)
Description
The crux is getting off the ground and into the crack. From there, some nice offwidth technique gets you higher. Then there is a jug followed by some face holds which allow you to reach the top.
It's actually a pretty interesting climb, but the lack of an easy TR anchor make it a bit of logistical effort. Still if you're an offwidth zealot, it's pretty fun and a way to get out of the sun.
There is a good chance it was climbed before, but I couldn't find any evidence in the San Luis Valley book or MP (and it is a bit hidden). Let's update the FA if we hear otherwise.
Location
Head into the side canyon before the virgin painting towards "
How The West Was Won
". Stay on the trail, stay left at
HTWWW
, go 50 feet more, and then semi-bushwhack to another side canyon on the left. People go this way to scramble up to the top to put up TRs on things like "
Not My Cross To Bear
". See the beta topo. Note, there is a slot canyon before this that has some inferior OW climbs and a harder chimney to the top.
The route will be on the left, and you can identify it by the lack of a crack at the bottom with a nice rail on the right side to help get you up into the crack.
Protection
I used a single Merlin 8 and a #6 with a pre-placed anchor at the top (green and blue Big Bros with a tree way back as a backup). If you don't have an 8, a bouldering pad would work, because once you get into the crack (only a few feet off the ground), you can easily get to the #6 placement.
Routes in Penitente - Inner Canyon
- 79Jesus Wouldn't Climb It5.10+Tr · Trad