Direct

"Direct" climbs between "Lost in the Sun" and "A Bit Short". The key feature on this climb is the beautiful 6th pitch (or 5th, depending on how long you make the pitch before), which climbs clean, white rock with 5 bolts. A slightly easier, and better protected version of Whitehorse's "Sliding Board"!For Pitch 1 see the excellent photo posted by Ron Birk, his description follows:P1: Go straight up passing block on left to anchor. 5.6 130’  

P2: Head up slab to anchor, passing four bolts. Nice climbing. Near the toip of the pitch I think you're supposed to go up left-ish on a clean white slab, although I went up straight and then traversed to the anchor.  5.6 150’

P3: Continue slab passing two bolts and a ramp to anchor passing. 5.4 150’

P4: Move right to a bolt, then up along a water groove to anchor. 5.5 170’

P5: Continue on easier slab passing a bolt to anchor. 5.2 110’

P6: Climb white clean rock passing five bolts to anchor. 5.6 160’  (A lot of people end the climb here and rap the route with 2 x 60m ropes. RHall note, 9/20/20)

P7: Over the overlap and up the easier slab, passing a small pocket (black Tricam), to a single bolt anchor. 5.4 180’

P8: Go up and traverse left over the weakness and up the slab to final anchor at a nice ledge. 5.3 115’

Protection: Mostly bolted with occasional gear placement. Bring draws and a light rack. May 28, 2019Descent - If you've done pitch 7 and 8, might as well rap down "Lost in the Sun": 8 Raps down the route with two ropes. Two 60m's are probably more than enough. (It seems to me the first 7 pitches of "Lost" were "set" with 50m (165 ft) ropes. The first rap (down "pitch 8 of "Lost" would be really close with only 50m's, but there are trees on the left.) . There is an anchor on "Direct" 15-20 ft right of the anchor with the broken hanger. Trying a descent with a single 70m will result in raps of the trees, leaving gear, or rapping off single bolts. (RHall 9/21/20)

Usual rack, draws for bolts.