- Edit (TBD)
Description
Three stars is definitely charitable, but with a bit of love and traffic this route has the potential to become something wonderful and unique. The route follows a messy, complicated corner system with a mix of delicate face-climbing, burly crack-climbing, and bizarre granite tufa-pinching. At the time of this writing I believe it's seen fewer than ten ascents, and still has a fixed line on it from (I'm told) cleaning and equipping. (This line is an old and should probably be removed, but that will likely require a knife.)
This route is in the Sloan guidebook and gets 5.10, but I'm not sure what that's based on. I believe Dan McD called it 11- originally, and it's certainly harder than 5.10s in the area, with tricky cruxes at the first and last bolt. This is a route that's still cleaning up. Expect dust, bird shit, and adventure.
The Sloan topo shows two bolts, but there are in fact four -- three for the face climbing in the middle, and one at the very top.
Location
Walk right right of Snatch Power, Jawbone et al. See picture.
Protection
A mix of nuts and small cams for the cracks at the bottom (.3 and .2 helpful), and some large gear (#3, #1, and #4 worked for me) for the big crack at the top. Four draws. Chains at the top.