Hourglass Gully (Winter)

A good way to attain the main summit of Mt Index in winter, the climb can be done in one or two days.  The ascent path is the same as the descent.  The most difficult sections are on the East Ridge of the main peak which begins south-east of Lake Serene, and the Hourglass Gully.  The route involves class 4/low class 5th rock and a short section of 60+ degree snow, rock, or tree climbing on the East Ridge which is often repelled on the descent.  On very good ice years, lake Serene can be crossed, but the approach usually skirts the lake to the west. Beware ice and rock fall when taking this approach.  The terrain steepens at the far end of the lake. Reference Becky for beta: Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol 1: Columbia River to Stevens Pass.

Start at the Lake Serene trailhead.

pickets, slings for trees.