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Peak Mountain 3

Erosion Groove

FA Joe Cote, Roger Martin 1973
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

APPROACH - Three approaches: 1) [ Best ] Take the sloping ledge that starts at the huge oak tree at the base of Groov’n  ( same ledge as alternate start to Washboard).  At its very end step down and move 5-6 feet left to reach the incipient crack about 20 feet above the “ toe”.  Avoids the first 20 ft of seldom-climbed and dirty slab. 2) From the base area (base of Groov'n and the "Arches") Slither, crash and bushwhack down and around the toe to the base of the climb as the FA-ers did! ( and your submitter the first time he climbed it !) 3)  Climb "Groov'n (or any other climb that leads to the Groov'n anchors) and then traverse to the Erosion Groove anchors [see photo posted to Twirpy Girl]. Rap to the base.START: At the bottom of toe of the slab, about 25 ft left, and 25 ft below the large Oak Tree of Groov'in. Bring a wire brush for the first 20-25 feet, or use the alternate start on the sloping ledge. Climb up the thin seam (very little protection in the first section; what there is will be nuts not cams) until it becomes a crack/groove. About 150 ft up the crack/groove ends at an inside corner. (Before getting here one can do a rising traverse to the Groov'n/Washboard anchor; to this point the climb is about 5.5 +/-)  Climb over the corner (5.6 -5.7 PG/R) to a clump of trees. Do a 2 rope rap or...Pitch 2 - Continue to trees above. (Easy)

Protection

A good selection of medium cams and nuts.