Centaur

Centaur is a spectacular and varied route on the right side of the Prow of Tower Two, which parallels the last pitches of

The Naked Edge

and

Diving Board

. The steep corner and roof pitch was first aid climbed (A3) in 1967. Two decades later (late 1980s or early 1990s) it was retro-bolted as a sport pitch, but it hadn't been freed.

Climb the first 5 pitches of

Redguard

105757837(easily combined into 3 pitches). Traverse 15 feet left on the maroon band (loose) to a sloping belay with one good bolt, one bad bolt, and gear. Looming above is a steep corner and roof with bolts.

P1. Struggle up the overhanging corner (bizarre body English) to the roof. Burly underclings with poor feet lead to liebacks, tips jams, and a deceptively tricky exit to the old hanging belay [*bad gear, an uncomfortable stance, and no pro for the next 15 feet make this a poor belay]. Shake out here, then tackle the short, red roof to a no-hands stance at the first protection bolt of the last pitch.

8 bolts, fixed HB offset, RPs; 55 feet; 13c.

P2. This is an amazing pitch, first freed by Christian Griffith in 1986.

Ascend the vertical face past several old bolts (need replacement) and gear to a striking seam in a hanging plaque of stone. Jam, crimp, and paste your way up the seam (RPs, tiny cams) to a steep finish in a dihedral. It is best to belay at a tree 40 feet beyond the lip of the wall.

4 bolts, 1 pin, gear; 85 feet; 12c.

Centaur (top 2 pitches only):

RPs, small-medium nuts, 1ea. #000 C3 - #1 Camalot.

Complete route (starting from the ground):

Add 1 each #2, #3 Camalots.