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MapDescription
Fun climb on excellent rock. Not nearly as sustained as Danger Boy.
Start with a series of fun moves on the right side of a steep arete (5.9). Avoid stepping left into the dirty corner for as long as possible. After gaining a large ledge, easy climbing follows a series of broken features to the crux.
The one-move crux is pulling straight up over a small roof (5.11a, only 5.10d for the over six-foot crowd). Take the time to find the positive crimp for your right hand before pulling. Stepping right or left to avoid the steepest line drops the grade to as low as 5.9.
Protection
7 bolts to chains.
The crux is very well protected.
Routes in Wheeler Gorge
- 32Stuart's Rig (aka Stu Boy)5.11aSport