California Dreaming

CALIFORNIA DREAMING (aka Kernal Sandfly) is a sweet route. A little easy face climbing to get started, and then it's a full-on stem-fest for most of the pitch. Although no single move approaches .11b in difficulty, the grade takes the "Tower enduro factor" into account (not a long pitch by Tower standards, but the calves will probably be talking by the time it's over). Interesting features on the right wall and a good rest at 2/3 height help keep the difficulties manageable.

Do the amazing first pitch of One Way Sunset to get warmed up. From the bolted anchor traverse up and left into the beautiful right facing dihedral. After about 10 feet you can clip the first of six bolts. The next 60 feet is unrelenting stemming with no real hand holds or good rests. The bolts are very well placed and the falls would not be too bad. After the sixth bolt you can get a good rest out to the right on a nice little ledge. The upper part of the pitch is easier and protects with gear. Rappel from bolts back to the One Way Sunset anchor. We made it easy with a single 70m rope.

Located just right of the NW buttress- same area as CAROL'S CRACK and ONE-WAY SUNSET (the latter makes a great approach pitch, since CALIFORNIA DREAMING doesn't start from the ground. One could also climb BUSTER CATTLEFIELD instead.) From the belay at the end of p.1 of ONE-WAY SUNSET, look up and left into the steep, right-facing dihedral.

Protection is very good. Shortly after leaving the belay a yellow alien gets you to the first of six well-placed bolts, after which you'll need a few odd pieces to see you to the chains (stoppers & smallish to medium cams).