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Peak Mountain 3

The Omen

FA Caleb Padgett & Mike Banach Feb 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Omen is a quality 6 pitch route that climbs varied crack systems. The left facing corner/handcrack on pitch 2 is visible from the ground.

P1: Climb the short corner to a ledge and single bolt belay. 50ft

P2: One of the best handcrack pitches in the park. This starts with tight hands and then goes to hands in a corner forever. Bolted belay. 5.10+ 190ft

P3: Climb up through the short chimney then trend left up ledges to a bolted belay. 5.8 140ft. Rappel off the left of the tower 50 ft to the start of P4.

P4: Climb up past a bolt into the perfect laser cut fingercrack. Stem and layback up the corner until the crack widens . Build a gear belay at the base of the wide corner above. 11b 110ft

P5: Climb up the flaring corner and through a pod above. The pod can be hard to negotiate with a helmet on. The pitch ends on a ledge with two bolts. 5.10+ 110ft.

P6: There are enticing cracks above the belay ledge but the route steps left around the corner and continues past two fixed pins and up the varnished corner to the top. 5.11a 190ft

Descent: Rappel the route with 2 60m ropes.

Location

Located on the west facing buttress on the subpeak of Meridian Tower. Once the approach trail meets the rock traverse left 300 feet to the base of the route. The handcrack on pitch two is easy to spot.

Protection

3x cams green alien to #4 Camalot. 1x#5 Camalot. A few extra #2 Camalots for pitch 2, and yellow aliens for P4.


Routes in Sub Peak of Meridian Tower


  1. 2
    The Omen
    5.11b
    Trad