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Peak Mountain 3

Jeep's Chimney

FA Jeep Barrett, Steve Owen
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Description

Jeep's Chimney climbs the most obvious feature on Lower Hawksbill - the large, acute, slightly left-facing dihedral. It's only a chimney because on how one climbs it - the crack in the back actually ranges from fingers to fists. The newest guidebook rates the pitch 10a; it certainly falls a bit more in the old school rating category.

Climb the corner using stems, jams, creativity, and a few thrutches to a double-bolt belay hidden in the chimney at the top. Don't be afraid, especially near the top of the pitch, to move out from the crack.

Location

In the back of the large, left-facing corner on the right side of Lower Hawksbill. The rap anchors are totally hidden in the top of the chimney - just keep climbing up the chimney, you'll find them.

Protection

A double set of cams from fingers to fist and a set of stoppers.