Cavity Chimney

From the Granite Guide:

"Likely the most bizarre climbing in the Wasatch. This one is for all you wide & funky lovers!"

Agreed. This was wide, but also extremely bizarre & funky in more of a sport climbing or bouldering sort of way mixed in. VERY hard for 5.9.

Climb the slab to the trees, then climb the ascending roof crack (#4-#5 C4s, lower crux), turn the corner into a flaring overhanging chimney (VG9/#7-#8 C4 size at the tightest), and scootch up to the chockstone that gradually dumps you out onto the overhang (higher, harder crux). Body torque off your legs to fight this as you work up good jams before a fist+bear hug finish, where you either smear feet on the underside of the overhand or do a wild stem to the protruding blocks on the left.

Finish up an easy squeeze and hand traverse/rail walk downclimb to a bong bong piton and tight hands gear. From here either belay followers before finishing, or use a long sling. Finish is via unprotected 5.5ish slab to the bushes.

To descend, traverse the brush ledge along the next slab area about 50' to the East (left) to some rappel anchors. A single 60m rope will get you down.

This route begins about 100' up the hill from the Trench Warfare boulder, to the East. It forms the dihedral in the overhanging slab corner. You can actually spot this from the road.

Singles from #0.2-#5 C4. Save the #1 & bring an extra #0.75 to back up the piton if you want to belay from here. Another small cam might protect 3/4 up the slab but by then you are home free.