Freestone (Geek Towers, Left)

P1: 11a. Climb up some 3rd class and clip the only bolt on the route. Make a tough move up and left to gain a ramp/corner system. Corner gets steeper and a little tough/spicy in spots. Eventually move out left of the main corner and climb up to a nice ledge. This pitch was wet in March. Not necessarily from the falls, but from seasonal seepage. Still doable though.

P2: 10b. Climb up 15 ft. or so and make a face move out left to get established below a splitter crack/groove. Clip a pin and start up. It looks like it will be unprotected but good gear consistently becomes available. short pitch, belay at a horrendous stance marked by some tat. If you have the bravery/gear left I would link it into the next one.

P3: 10b. Noted as "thin and scary" in the Reid guide and "really thin" in the Sloan guide, it's not that big of a deal. Make sure to get in some gear off the belay and then make some tough moves up and right to gain the next crack/groove splitter. Climb this thing for a ways to a somewhat nicer stance at some tat.

P4: 10d and, indeed, a tad spicy. Big hollow flakes off the belay lead up until you must make a difficult face move with pro at/below your feet to gain a ledge/ramp. This ramp becomes the corner system of the upper half of the route. Many options for a belay but I went all the way up to a little stance right below the obvious thin corner of the next pitch.

P5: Sweet 11a tips crack in a corner. Infamously pinned out, I didn't think it was too crazy. Anyway, keep going until you get to a much-deserved, amazing, plush-as-it-gets belay ledge. Plan on having lunch here. Sit back and enjoy the falls thundering right next to you...

P6: 10d. Really fun pitch, if a tad stout, and the geometry of the crack makes pro a little hard to get. Short pitch. I belayed in an alcove of crap rock. A little higher up might be better but will require bigger gear that you may need on the next one.

P7: 11c and every bit of it. Climb the steep, mostly fist/cupped crack past a fixed #4. Higher, another crux wide section is encountered. Make sure to save a #4 of your own for this!! Eventually the climbing eases and then a belay ledge is reached out right. Belay takes .75-3. A long, burly pitch.

P8: Easy climbing to the summit of the Geek Towers.

Geek Towers. Once you make it up to the base of the Falls Wall in the vicinity of Lost Arrow, traverse left through some bushes (don't scramble up the big ledge system as for the center route?) to an amazing, giant ledge right next to the falls. Almost too close for comfort..

Descent: We saw a lot of random rap anchors on the way up but the standard way worked out good. Take a knife and some cord. All bolted anchors with at least 1 ASCA bolt in each of 'em. We had two ropes.

1. Rap off the right side of the summit to a big ledge. single 70m worked.

2. Short rap to the next ledge down.

3. Rap down the face. Single 70m works.

4. Rap down and right to an alcove. Two ropes needed. an 80m might make it.

5. Rap down over some roofs to some rampy terrain. 80m might?

6. Rap to the big ledge system and scramble back down to packs. 80m??

For the majority of the route: doubles from tiny to #2, one #3 and #4. Some small offsets in there will be nice too. Small selection of nuts.

For 11c pitch: a 2nd #3 and especially #4 will be nice. A #5 was really nice, but just for a short, easier section. so maybe not necessary..