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Peak Mountain 3

Maiden Misery

FA Jeremy Collins, Jason Roy 12/07
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

What!? A sport climb in the Hero Maker area!? Whoa! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you can now hike 4 minutes from your car with just a rack of draws, and enjoy the Hero Maker area.

This is the textbook definition of a "sleeper". From the ground you may be asking yourself "why"? It starts in a low angle, very lichen covered groove.

The climbing is gritty and interesting from the start, but no moves harder than 5.7. The slab above looks fourth class until you are on it and SAY, what's this? Interesting moves on low angle rock! Mantle up on the big horn, and head up to the base of the orange headwall, where the gritty stone turns to that hard, cracked stuff we are all looking for.

Suddenly the slab turns to slots and crimps as you finish up with a couple steep crux moves to finish you off. For extra enjoyment, mantle the top-out instead of leaning back on the anchors.

This route was Made in Missouri, as were it's first ascentionists.

Location

100 yards around the corner right from "smoke in your eyes" is a low angle slab with an orange headwall at the top

Protection

8 bolts, anchors