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Peak Mountain 3

On The Case

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Description

There are three hard sections on this great line. The primary feature is a narrow, right-leaning ramp that goes up the center of an overhanging wall -- the left wall of Gunpowder Corner.

Three routes begin at the same location and share the first couple bolts. Go straight up to a shelf. (A closed project continues straight up here.) Traverse left over the void to a short right-facing corner, Up this, then continue left (1st crux) to a good no-hands stance below an overhanging wall. Instant Makeout, 11a, continues straight up here; you go right. Make a hard move right (2nd crux) to gain the right-rising ramp. Follow this up and right to its top, spectacular 5.8. At the top, step right, then straight up (boulder problem, 3rd crux) to a good shelf (sit-down rest), then up to a fixed anchor just below the top.

You can lower with a 70m rope. The route is impossible to clean on lower, so it's best to have a follower.

Location

Locate Gunpowder Corner -- the giant, right-facing corner with a chimney in it. Begin a few feet left of this at a large birch tree.

Protection

Sport.