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Peak Mountain 3

Icy Paralyzer

FA Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin, 1997.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is the middle of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the big roof on the right, then breaks left and climbs a thin face.

From the top of the approach trail to the Beer Can, scramble up to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay anchor. Continue 20' right to another 2-bolt belay anchor; start here.

Climb up and right, clipping the first 7 bolts of

Drink to Puke

. Use long runners on the 6th and 7th bolts to minimize rope drag. Break left over the roof (5.9), and climb a thin face and corner (crux) past 3 more bolts. Continue up and left to the anchor.

This is a good first 5.11 sport lead.

Protection

2-bolt belay anchor. 15 bolts to a 3-bolt anchor. Bring a 60m rope and several longer runners.

The top anchor is shared by all three bolted routes on the rock.


Routes in The Angel of Death (formerly known as The Beer Can)