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Peak Mountain 3

Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze

FA Don Harder, Pat Timson, Jeff Vance, Ric LeDuc and Bruce Hildenbrand 4/78
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Another steep slab route on the Royal Arches apron with long runouts between bolts on small, sometimes friable edges.

Location

About 200-300 feet uphill(north) of 1096 and just right of Move Like a Stud. Climb 25 feet up to a ledge and clip a bolt on its right edge. Make a 5.10 mantel move onto a sharp edge and clip the second bolt. The crux is 25 feet of thin climbing to a small pocket and a third bolt. The climbing eases a bit past two or three more bolts and the anchor.

A double rope rap reaches the ground.

Protection

Five or six bolts to a two bolt anchor. The ASCA replaced the bolts on this climb in the mid-2000's. Thanks to Clint and Roger.