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Peak Mountain 3

You're Tearing Me Richard!

FA Bob Lehman & Owen Jenkins - Feb. 2016
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a 4 pitch climb that is mostly bolted, but the second pitch is mostly gear. P1 (5.9+) climbs a bolted face with huecos, past an awkward mantle with a perma-draw to the bolted anchors to the right. P2 (5.9) climbs up past 3 bolts into an offwidth where the gear starts. Climb the offwidth onto a ramp where there is short fun dihedral to the bolted anchors above. P3 (5.9+) climbs straight up the bolted face above, with an exciting finish to the bolted anchors above. P4 (5.9) climbs a bolted face that climbs out right from the anchors, before heading straight up; the second bolt is not obvious. P4 ends at a large alcove with bolted anchors. "Walk off pitch" you can continue up a 2 bolt face to the final "walk off" anchors if you want to walk off via the First Kiss walk off (which is 50'ft. to the climbers right); the final anchors are safely situated back from the exposure of the route. All belay stances are large and comfortable and all the anchors are equipped with rappel ring anchors; if you want to rappel the route (the route can be rapped with a single 60m rope). This is a really fun route and I cleaned it fairly well, but as with all new routes, it will only get better with time.

Location

This route is found on the Kiss of the Lepers Buttress. From the base of "The Climb", continue uphill (climbers left) along the base of the rock, for roughly 200'ft. until you come to a large face with huecos. Where the huecos start, you will see the line of bolts heading up this face. The climb "Groove Thang" is roughly 200'ft. to the left of this.

Protection

P1 - sport/9 bolts, P2 - mixed/3 bolts, then gear to 3 inches, P3 - sport/10 bolts, P4 - sport/8 bolts, walkoff pitch - sport/2 bolts


Routes in (t) Kiss of the Lepers Buttress