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Peak Mountain 3

Great Expectations

FA Carrie and Bob Robertson, 2000
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb starts 30-40 feet before

La Cholla Jackson

, and 20-30 feet before

Chunky Monkey

. Look for a large dihedral with a distinct knife-edge arete in the corner. Great Expectations begins on an east-facing wall 3 climbs to the left of this arete. The picture included has this listed as #80.

The climbing starts by clipping a red homemade coldshut, and two other bolts before jumping around the arete on great holds (8). One should use long runners or unclip the second draw, and have your partner unclip the first to reduce rope drag. The climbing continues to a steep and juggy headwall with small roofs and long reaches. Good rests along with spectacular position and exposure makes this a great climb!!

Location

Per

303scott

: I think the route location description is wrong. I think it is the 3rd route to climber's RIGHT of the knife edge. 3rd to the left is an 11b.

Protection

9 bolts plus anchors.


Routes in Cactus Cliff


  1. 115
    Great Expectations
    5.10d
    Sport