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Peak Mountain 3

Cro-Magnon/Caveman

FA unknown
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Route would climb through what looks like a very interesting roof in the NW face. On the right side. Note this description also goes for "Caveman" +9, which takes the same start.

First it follows a slab ramp up and right from a sandy bench at small tree. There are no opportunities for gear on this section. It then goes up left following a line of moss that may have been a crack when a guidebook was printed in 76.

At this section there was still no pro. "Holds" crumbled to sand in your hand. At the only pod I had seen for pro I tried placing a nut, the rock exploded into a dust cloud with a light pull.

I don't like soloing on a sand dune, so I decided to make a tenuous downclimb of the "friction slab" that was all loose sand.

Location

Roof in NW face as you walk toward sunset slab.

Protection

Bring a boat anchor and stab it into the rock?


Routes in Northwest Side