Serious Play

This is a challenging route that would be serious to lead. Leave it to Mike Cichon to awe us mortals with faith in sticky rubber and tiny RPs. Most will do this as a TR to preserve one's ankles.

Start with the tight hands crack to the right of

Hellraiser

. Gain the ledge at half height. Fiddle in a good RP or maybe two, but you can now clip the bolt on

2 Ways to Hell

to make it less hazardous. Two barndoor moves to gain the crack sidepulls with your left hand and a deadpoint to just below the roof gets you more stable. Another left hand slap above the roof and a high step gets you to the finger crack lieback and the top.

Rap from a 2 bolt anchor with very thin chains.

FWIW, I think this name is similar to Steve Dieckhoff's book.

This is the first route right of the offwidth of

Hellraiser

.

A rack to a #1 Camalot including RPs or more sanely a TR with long slings off the 2 bolt anchor above.