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MapDescription
Don't let the easier climbing down low lull you into complacency; this route saves its hardest moves for the last 20' or so, culminating with a very marginal stance for clipping the anchors that may send you on a long ride.
Climb a thin face to a spacious ledge and take a breather. More face climbing will bring you to an overlap (crux #1); move up on crimpers to a seam below a roof. Make a couple of long moves to juggy holds in the roof, then throw for a sloper at the top and try to hold on long enough to clip the anchors.
Location
Starts about 10' right of Unknown #1.
Protection
Five bolts; open shut anchors. If you're not comfortable with a fair amount of runout between bolts, bring a few small cams for pro.
Routes in Tea and Crumpets Wall
- 9Marble Tea5.11aSport