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Peak Mountain 3

Pisces Wall

FA Andrew Fulton, Dan Briley
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route follows the large water streak that bisects the lower two thirds of the wall. At the base, the water streak splits in two— start on the left side. All belays are bolted (except maybe the last one at the summit). The rock is mostly bullet-proof but gets softer with elevation.

P1) Climb small cracks in the left water streak to a small stance under the large roof. P2) Continue on small cracks on the right side of the roof, then straight up to a spacious network of narrow ledges under the huge eyebrow/alcove. P3) Left of the water streak, on the left edge of the huge eyebrow, climb thin seams past a bolt, then up and right to parallel the edge of the water streak connecting eyebrows as you go. Belay in the last eyebrow on a nice ledge with a bonsai ponderosa. P4) Angle to the right back into the water streak. Discontinuous seams and hooking lead to a belay on a small stance. This is the most committing pitch on the climb. P5) Bat hook straight up past a few bolts on a vertical and nearly featureless face to the top of the water streak, changing to friction climbing as it rounds out. This pitch tops out on the huge ledge/slope below the summit headwall at the tail of the large red fish-shaped spot.

Scramble several hundred feet up and slightly right to a shallow, left-leaning, dihedral/ramp that forms the left border of a steeper face.

P6) Climb the dihedral to a belay at a poor stance. P7) Finish off the dihedral and break right when the steepness lessens. Friction climb, interspersed with aid, from thin seam to thin seam and gear pocket to gear pocket as you try to protect this last run-out face on nice white softer sandstone. Belay in a small alcove.

Climb the last easy move out the right side of the alcove and 4th class to the summit.

Location

Take the north fork of Pine Creek. The north fork splits again where the Mescalito descent reaches the wash. Stay right. A short way past this junction is a distinct section of rippled, golden-rainbow colored bedrock on the right side of the drainage. Just past this, an obscure bushy ledge system cuts up and right through a broken cliff. The ledge is a slight scramble to gain and starts small but quickly turns into the large ramp that comes down, under the Pisces Wall, from the saddle of Bridge Mountain and its east summit. Takes about 2-2.5 hrs from the parking lot after getting familiar with the trail.

Protection

Cams: triples of micro-2” & doubles of 2.5”-4”, stoppers, brass nuts, ball nuts are useful, 2ea. pointed skyhooks, 2ea. flat-edged skyhooks, set of cam hooks, 2ea. bat hooks, handful of pitons- knifeblades & lost arrows, hammer.


Routes in Pisces Wall


  1. 1
    Pisces Wall
    5.10+
    Trad · Aid