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Peak Mountain 3

I'm Melting

FA Greg Parker
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Description

This route is the second route from the left. It starts with 3 bolts of 5.10 climbing followed by a wicked crux section on tiny crimps and pockets with no footholds. The fourth bolt is difficult to clip. It's actually easier to bypass it and clip it after you've done the crux and it's at your knees and the last bolt you've clipped is three feet below your feet. Fairly creepy. Luckily, it's probably only 5.11a after the crux. While attempting the first ascent I broke a hold and fell on the 5.11a section after fighting through the crux, which forced me to do the scary crux again. This is probably not the easiest 13a to go out and project.

Protection

8 bolts, two cold shut anchor