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Peak Mountain 3

Sticks and Stones

FA Jim Pettigrew, Will Tyree and Phil Bircheff, January 1972
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a varied and physical crack climb with everything from thin fingers to fist, but mostly really nice fingers and thin hands. It was much better than it looked from the base.

Three short pitches are recommended because you are likely to get rope drag.

Pitch 1 climb up to the bush, liebacking a wide bit (great #4 camelot here). Lieback past a insecure chimney to a finger/thin hand crack. Continue to a great ledge with a gear belay of small to medium cams. Excellent sustained climbing with great gear 5.10-.

Pitch 2 continue up the finger crack corner as it widens to off width, past a great knob. Gear belay just above the bulge on a great ledge. 5.9-.

Pitch 3 continue up the infrequent incipient finger crack with perfect small cams for gear and big knobs. 5.8-. Wrap some blocks on top for a belay.

Location

This route is on the right center of Sticks and Stone cliff, it is the obvious crack with a bush at the bottom.

Protection

Standard rack to 4" cam, include extra small cams to 2". No bolts or bolted belays.

Descend by rappeling 60 meters (two ropes) from the anchor above Friends in High Places or walk down east along the edge of the cliff.


Routes in Sticks and Stones


  1. 2
    Sticks and Stones
    5.10b
    Trad