Bowling to Biscuits

P1: 5.10a. Climb a short crack on a pedestal, about 30' left of Peanuts. At the top of the pedestal, layback up and right to the face holds (takes a good wired stopper or brass nut: #5 BD nut is perfect). The face climbing (~5.8) has two bolts, and ends on a ledge below a hand-crack in a shallow corner. Climb the crack (~10a) and do a few traverse moves left to a two-bolt chained anchor below the roof.

(Completely disregard the info in guidebooks published before 2012: they mistakenly label the dirty corner further left as the 1st pitch. That corner was never part of the route.)

P2: 5.10d. Go over the roof on the right side, grabbing solid flakes and jamming (~10a). Enter the corner (see photo) and follow the corner to a ledge and 3-bolt belay. The crux is the pumpy jams soon after pulling the roof. The crack widens at the top. The top ledge is very comfortable.

Pitch 2 is short but sustained. It also tends to stay clean and dry, even in a light rain.

A double rope (150') reaches the ground. With a single rope, you can rap to the anchor at the top of the first pitch, but it may require a little swinging to be able to grab the chains. From this anchor, a single 60-m rope will reach the ground.

In the Bobcat Cringe area. Starts about 30' left of Peanuts to Serve You.

Bring small nuts and cams to 4".