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Peak Mountain 3

Rocca de Luna

FA Jason Haas, 2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is just right of Ubiquitous Confusion, which is a great, sleeper route in and of itself (although I think that line is closer to 13a than the given grade of 12c/d in the old guidebook). Anyway, this route was an old, abandoned Brian Mullin project from the 1990s that only had a bolted anchor on it. I replaced the anchor and sunk a line of glue-ins in it this past spring.

Begin on the slab just left of a widening crack that doesn’t quite reach the ground. Balancy climbing leads up to the bulging headwall and sustained, hard crimping past several bolts through the overhang. Finish on some mellow jugs just before the anchor. I thought this route was a ton of fun, and I hope others get on it soon!

Location

This is the rightmost bolted line (and currently the only one with glue-ins) on the main portion of this wall and is just right of Ubiquitous Confusion. If you don't have the guidebook, it's about 30 feet right of

Gunk's Pump

which is listed on this website.

Protection

6 bolts.