Spearhead, Chiefshead, Pagoda, Long's Traverse

If you're looking for a Park traverse but want something shorter with a bit more vertical climbing and a bit less bushwhacking than

Walk in the Park

, check out Spearhead to Long's.

Approach

From the Glacier Gorge trailhead take the established trail to Black Lake. From the lake follow the climbers' trail east above treeline. Head south across the meadows to the base of Spearhead.

Route

Spearhead

Choose your own adventure up

Spearhead

. More popular options include:

N Ridge

(5.6)

E Prow

(5.9)

Syke's Sickle

(5.9+)

The Barb

(5.10-)

All Two Obvious

(5.11d R)

Spear Me the Details

(5.11d)

Stone Monkey

(5.12a)

Chiefshead

From the summit of Spearhead, continue along the ridge. The most direct line is to take the

Central Rib

(5.7) or a variation thereof. One could zigzag up the ramp systems if easier climbing is desired.

Pagoda

Now the real fun begins. Follow the obvious knife edge ridgeline along the

W Ridge

(5.7) of Pagoda.

Longs

From the summit of Pagoda, pick a line to Longs to suit your desired level of difficulty (class 3+).

Descent

From the Keyhole Route on Long's, cross-country down the talus slopes (e.g.

the Trough

) back into Glacier Gorge. Follow the trail out the way you came.

Water

Depending on the season it may be difficult to find water on the route proper unless there is snow and/or runoff. Plan accordingly.

Answers to FAQ

From messages:

I started with the North Ridge of Spearhead and did not bring a rope. Most of the route is not sustained.

I don't remember my car-to-car time. It took me ~9 hrs from the trailhead to the summit of Long's at a casual pace and having done only the last 500' previously.

No fixed gear or anchors.