The Waltz

A fun Canyon romp, The Waltz ascends up three large steps from close to the canyon floor. The pitches end on huge ledges with bolted anchors. The faces all go with pretty reasonable protection.

Pitch 1 (5.6)

Head up aiming for a large ledge over easy blocky terrain (5.4) and gain the face. I wouldn't suggest placing too much on this first bit or the rope drag will be somewhat unbearable later. Head up the face through many small cracks and huge jugs. The bolts are on the left right as you top out. You can scramble off the right side from here if you don't wish to climb any further. If wishing to continue, scramble along the top of the rib to the base of the next pitch.

Pitch 2 (5.6)

Head up following the large crack that takes great gear and is a super enjoyable romp. Anchors are on the left or the right when you top out this pitch. To continue onto pitch three, head to the back of the rib and either rappel or downscramble the fin to the base of the next tier (gear anchor). You can also rappel off the right side to escape from the top of this rib.

Alternate Pitch 2: Trundler's Delight (5.10)

Pitch 3 (5.6)

From the base of the fin, climb up through various flaring crack features (tricky gear) to gain a broad ledge and then head to a tree towards the right edge. Set up a belay here and bring the second up this very short (but exposed) pitch. Mostly done simply to set up for the last pitch and to avoid rope drag.

Pitch 4 (5.8)

Starting from the south edge of the belay tree, climb up a broad corner approximately 15 feet and then step out left onto the main face. Climb up the main face using whatever features seem most interesting (many variations possible), generally staying on the right 1/3rd of the face, aiming for a large ledge crossing the face at 3/4 height. This ledge is most easily exited by taking a groove from the left edge to the top, but many variations are possible.There is a two bolt anchor on a small ledge just before the top that makes a convenient belay. Due to the wandering nature of this pitch, watch out for rope drag. More difficult to protect than the former pitches, this last one is skipped by many just looking for a warmup/romp. Descend by walking off the backside to the right (south).

Alternate Pitch 4: "The Patagonia Variation" (5.8)

Start as normal, but continue up the broad corner through several overlaps (tricky gear), aiming for a bolt ~50' up from the belay. From the bolt, continue up and then left onto the main face.

Park right after the 35 mph bridge and hike in until you hit the second trail that heads up the hill (Denoted by a small SMCC Climber Access Sign) and continue up the talus field until you reach the base of a large formation. This is The Waltz formation and the climb named after the formation starts on the right side up the hill around 10 feet. Look for a large ledge that gains the face.

Double rack from .3-#3 Camalots. Nut placements are possible but I've lead it easily without.