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Peak Mountain 3

Pervertical Sanctuary

FA Ron Olevsky and Bob Dodds, 1974. FFA: Bruce Adams/Tobin Sorenson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pervertical is the second easiest climb on the Diamond, but don't let this fool you into thinking it is a cake walk. This is a serious route that can give you trouble unless you are good at all sizes of crack climbing. There are a few loose pitches, but the upper pitches are phenomenal and there is superb exposure. As with all the Diamond routes, it is wise to become familiar with the layout of the wall before attempting these routes (especially your descent route as the rappel anchors can be hard to find), or better yet go with someone who knows the area well. Begin on the far left side of Broadway on the right side of the Obelisk column.

P1. Climb the left side of the Mitten formation, aloose pitch with sparse pro (8, 130 feet).

P2. Climb the crack above the Mitten flake, and belay at a ledge on the right (9, 100 feet).

P3. Continue up the crack and left-facing corner to a bolt (manky), and gain a ledge at the right side of the Obelisk (9, 100 feet).

P4. The crux pitch. 11a handcrack (10c old-school) that will leave you gasping for air. (11a, 80? feet).

P5. The offwidth pitch. This is a four inch offwidth that is sustained but fun if you like wide cracks. Climb a right-facing corner on right side of Obelisk, and belay on top of this pillar (10a, 130-170? feet).

P6. From the right side of the pillar, take a steep crack to Table Ledge (9, 100 feet).

Traverse left to get to

Kiener's

or right to the rappel anchors.

Protection

Standard alpine rack up to a #4 Camalot. Double cams from 1.5 and up.