- Edit (TBD)
Description
Supposedly one of the more popular routes but lacks the chalk to prove it. This route is about the steepest on the Right end of the Sunny Side and does not slab out at the top like the majority of the routes here.
Start with a difficult move off the ground to the first bolt, easier climbing leads up to the second. From here bear down on some small holds on the steep panel and get aggro to latch a distant edge. Move into the obvious flake and catch a quick shake before heading up the wall on flat and positive edges. Catch a rest in the broken band and eyeball the steep wall above. Climb the upper wall on edges, sidepulls slopers and pockets past the 5th and 6th bolts to jugs just before the anchors.
Apparently graded 5.12c originally and 5.12d in the Rock & Ice Road Trips from a few years back. Maybe the seemingly sanbagged grade is what leads to the lack of chalk.
Location
This route starts right above the approach trail and climbs the steep grey wall to a hanging headwall above.
Protection
6 bolts to a bolted anchor. Stick clip the first bolt.
Routes in Sunny Side (Right End)
- 12Melanoma5.13aSport