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Peak Mountain 3

Desert Delirium (aka Lost in the Wonderland)

FA Dave Houser & John Lonne, January 1981
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Climb straight up from a flake at the base of the wall, through a small roof. Continue past a couple bolts and traverse left under the imposing headwall. Traverse past several bolts and belay at the left end of the headwall.

Pitch 2: Climb up a bit, then angle up and left. You might be able to place a couple pieces, but this pitch is basically runout on easier climbing. Aim for a notch in the upper headwall, pull the steep move and set a belay above. This might stretch a 60m rope. Pitch 2 can be broken into two pitches, with an intermediate belay at a double bolt anchor in the middle of the pitch.

Location

Look for the obvious notch in the lower flake/roof toward the right end of the wall.

Protection

Bolts, some tiny nuts and small cams, long runners and quickdraws. Medium to large cams for the final anchor on top.


Routes in Lost in the Wonderland Slab


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    Desert Delirium (aka Lost in the Wonderland)
    5.10a
    Trad