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Peak Mountain 3

Yoshi-Meister

FA R. Lynn & Z.Orenczak
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Fun climb up a big sweep of rock.  I'm always impressed at the varied nature of 5.8s and this one is no exception. The first pitch is the exciting part, set your anchors as high as you'd like after the steep stuff, ~90'. P2, a comfortable hand/fist off-angle pitch that ran an entire 70m all the way to where the crack peters out near the top.  I then wandered around unroped to find the beige rap anchors (up right) for 3 raps down off double ring anchors that lands about 70 feet right of the start.  A little more adventurous than the regular clip-ups.

Location

This is currently the left most route on the face.  The vague path up from the valley floor comes up under some eyebrow roofs on the left with an inset face with white streaks.  You'll see a somewhat intimidating roof system that comes over from the right and features a left facing corner perhaps 35' up.  Just below that there are some big flat rocks and a small right facing flake/dihedral.  You go up the face and cross onto the flake, moving left up a small ramp up to the roof, undercling out to the corner and up (fight the bush).  Step back right to the long crack above and set up a belay.  I passed 2 fixed nuts.

Protection

I carried a std rack of nuts, double 1-3 cams and some long runners. Maybe an optional #4 if you want for the belay.