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Peak Mountain 3

Falling Ross

FA: Larry & Beckey Treiber, 1969 FFA (P1): Scott Baxter, Karl Karlstrom, 1973 FFA(P2): David Anderson, Robert Crawford, 1974
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Description

Falling Ross is an excellent natural line that offers pretty good protection, but some mental edge as well. It may feel quite challenging if you're just stepping up to the grade.

P1: 150 feet, 5.9+ Start just right of the Flying Buttress where it intersects the main wall (same corner as for Coke Bottle). Climb up and right, taking a sort of "stairstep" flake on the right that turns into a crack system. Continue as it goes vertical (rock gets slick!) and make a burly reach to the left. Follow the crack up and to the right, where it angles up to a nice ledge system (Froggy Botttom Ledge). Belay here.

P2: 90 feet, 5.10b Move left on the ledge about 15' to an incredible looking hand crack running straight up the wall. Climb this crack to the top. There will be some discontinuous crack systems you climb in the last 15 feet or so to the belay. Sweeet! If you can, do this route on a relatively cool day. The crack gets pretty greasy-feeling on hot days and it may feel much harder.

Continue to the top up the brushy ramp behind the route from here. 3rd-4th class. Rope up.

Location

The route starts where the right side of the Flying Buttress meets the main wall (same as for Coke Bottle).

Protection

Gear to 2". Doubles probably a good idea.