Corkscrew Route

From the open area on the North side of the peak at 5,000-5,500 feet, ascend snow in early season or the ridge to climber's left in late season to a saddle at 5,800 feet.  Head uphill from here, staying on the climber's left of the ridge, until it is easy to access the glacier and traverse underneath the East Face of the peak.  Step off the glacier at the Southeast ridge and follow the climber's trail as it corkscrews around the South ridge and eventually up to the summit.

There are two approaches possible for this climb that end up in the open area on the North side at 5,000-5,500 feet.

Cougar Creek

Follow the brushy trail to the south, using flagging tape and faint trails to three log crossings, eventually ending up on a wide, sandy riverbed.  Head upstream slightly to find more flagging tape entering the woods on the West bank.  The trail is faint at first, but then opens up a bit.  It follows an old logging road for a brief moment before turning sharply uphill and switching back a long ways, crossing a stream below a waterfall, and continuing all the way up to the open area at 5,000-5,500 feet where there are great campsites.

Bedal Creek

Follow the trail 1.2 miles to 3,560 feet, just before a major side stream before heading up the slope in the trees.  At about 4,500 feet, follow a flat area toward the 5,300 ft saddle between Bedal Peak and Sloan Peak.  Just before reaching the open area, ascend in the trees to 4,800 ft, then up to approximately 5,000 ft in brushy areas.  At 5,000 feet, traverse the slope to the timber and then on to the saddle.  Continue up to the base of the glacier.

Glacier gear