Boomer

Climbs a fun little finger and hand crack, 3 bolts of face climbing on thin edges to jugs, a finger crack to a tree, then edgy face and crack climbing to finish at the belay tree down down below the Sail.

We cleaned a ton of loose rock throughout that dihedral in spring 2019, then it got too hot so we bailed on it. When we went back in October 2019 to finish equipping it we found AJ's bolts. We connected and this is the result.

APPROACH:

This is on the upper Keel, in the dihedral to the R of Texas Flake and to the L of Pete's Flight School.

Approach as you would for Texas Flake, which is accessed by either scrambling up 5th class slabs OR by climbing Bizarro Duck. You can traverse from either the bottom Anchor of Texas Flake or the top of Bizarro Duck, then traverse over right to the anchor at the bottom of the dihedral.

You can also climb "Hi, I'm the best Guide EVar!", which ends at a 2-bolt anchor at the start of Barking Up the Wrong Spider. From there, scramble to the 2-bolt anchor at the bottom of a crack system on the Right side of TF.

CLIMBING:

Starting at the bottom anchor, climb the crack system on the Right side of TF. As that crack arcs left, head straight up and right on cool edges, clipping the first 2 bolts, then one more before exiting into thin fingercracks. Climb past the tree, using gear in the dihedral and one bolt on the cool green face till you finish at the tree anchor.

Can get substitute smaller pieces than hand sizes but it's nice to have a standard rack, including small cams up to #3 camalot, draws.

We added a slightly lower bolted anchor to avoid climbing the last 20' of choss

. This makes getting back down to the chains with a 70m rope a lot less spooky. Also lessens the likelihood of dropping bombs onto your friends.

PLEASE NOTE

: If you go all the way to the tree, this pitch is almost exactly 35m.

Watch your rope when lowering

because it is very close.  When tied in for leading and with gear placements taking up distance, a 70M barely works with rope stretch.