Dance With The Devil

Dance With The Devil is a bit out-of-character for the area as it involves almost no slabbing - it is predominantly chimneying and overhanging climbing. Don't be fooled though, you'll still want your footwork dialed for this one.

Beta-free version:

chimney the first 25 feet of the route before committing to the overhanging face to the anchor.

Beta-filled version:

chimney the first 25 feet of the route. At the fourth bolt, lace those dancing shoes up tight, and milk your rest, because it's game-on to the anchors. Suck it in deep, and commit to your not-so-great sidepulls to get set on the overhanging face. Work up to a great sidepull, clip your last bolt, and two-step your way through thin, sharp crimps and smooth, bordering non-existent feet. Move into the right-angling seam, and find the only jam of the route. Move to the first and only actual jug on the route, just below the anchors, and keep the hoedown alive as you hold the barn door and move your feet up. Those more vertically inclined can nab the anchors from here, those shorter will have to continue along the rail, discovering the absolute deficit of decent holds until the decent gaston at its terminus. Lower back down the ground, and pass the line dance on to your belayer - they'll surely thank you for hanging the draws for them.

If you want an extra challenge, the line can be done staying on the bolted face without chimneying, though it likely bumps the grade up a full number grade or two. Also note that the bolts were placed where good rock was found (as the original intent of the line was to chimney), not necessarily where the best face holds are, so human-stickclipping the first bolt or two via chimneying is probably a wise decision.

It is in the cave on upper Inferno Slab - just behind

Dorsal Fin

and climber's right of

Kitty Kat Skat

. There is another, easy (5.6/7) bolted line on the opposite wall as well -

Phantom Theatre

.

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with steel loweroffs.