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Peak Mountain 3

Skidmarks (mid-cliff START)

FA Dave and Annie Getchell, early 1990s (TR); Ben Townsend, Dorcas Miller, around 2010 (lead)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Step up immediately left of the bolted anchor (top of Poison Ivy, bottom of Fourth of July) and wander upward and slightly left, eventually reaching a crack system just below the top. There is a very well-concealed anchor at the bushy ledge, with a good stance.

A great toprope and a very committing lead, left unbolted by local consensus. The technical crux is before the first good gear. On lead, first head for a slot on the right for a #1 Camalot or equivalent, then back left to another slot for a #0.4 (double ropes are nice here); up a moderate but unprotected ramp to a horizontal, then step left and follow a subtle thin crack system up and a bit right to big holds and good gear. There are many places where falling would be a bad idea.

Location

The dark brown face on the upper wall just left of Fourth of July, starting from the bolted anchor just right of the big notch that separates the left and right halves of Broadway.

Protection

Light rack including tiny wires and #3 Camalot or equivalent; bolted belay/rappel anchor. Double ropes recommended.