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MapDescription
A nice combination of delicate balance, powerful bouldering, and edgy face climbing, all in the first three bolts. After that the climbing eases considerably.
The crux is getting above the second bolt, which you should high clip with your feet in the bowl, since getting much higher than this before clipping the second bolt would mean a potential ground fall.
Location
This route is in between Pain in the Neck and A-Cute Pain. It goes through the big bowl/pocket to the right of Pain in the Neck. The first bolt is in the middle of the pocket.
Protection
This is a sport route -- I think there were 6 bolts and the anchor -- but we placed a small cam (0.3 C4) from the ground to protect the belayer, since the route starts on a ledge.
Routes in Sweet Pain Wall
- 9Pain Relief5.9+Sport