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Peak Mountain 3

Purgatorius

FA Claude Traufield
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is another sport climb on near vertical, gritty, featured rock that will need some traffic to clean up.

Ascend easy terrain past 3 bolts starting on a micro-Flatiron. Then there is a longish reach around the 4th bolt. Dance right (cruxish), up, then left. Note,

the 6th bolt leaves your top biner dangling partway over an edge

, so I don't recommend falling on the 6th bolt. Perhaps a rounded hanger would allow threading a sling? The terrain eases up, and you gain the two bolt anchor.

This route currently leaves one a bit cautious pulling on flakes and trusting edges. This is adventure sport climbing.

Note, Claude indicated he felt the route clocks in at 8+. Per Claude, "it was named after a small extinct creature that managed to survive for a time during and after the era of the thunder lizards. There's even a picture of what it was thought to look like on Wikipedia." Thanks, Claude!

Per

Bruce Hildenbrand

: because of the distance between the 4th and 5th bolts, if the leader falls or blows the clip at the 5th bolt, they are looking at a 25+' fall onto a big ledge. Be careful!

Location

This is left of

Byrontosaurus

perhaps 100 feet, past a flake-filled groove, near a moderate-sized tree.

Protection

7 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.


Routes in The Little Fin


  1. 1
    Purgatorius
    5.9-
    Sport