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Peak Mountain 3

Narcolepsy

FA Troy Mayr and Steve Axthelm, 1987
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Narcolepsy is a steep finger to hand crack. The crux feels like its within the first 5-8 ft (getting into the crack) where there is a slight overhang to it. Some of the moves are strenuous almost bouldery moves. A generous helping of features on the outside adds for creative and fun climbing. It takes good pro and there seems to be good rests for placing it. Awesome exit to the top. It goes somewhat quick, so savor it. I wish it was longer, would get more stars. Its not in the new guidebook, so if you're looking for it, you'll have to consult the older Vogel/Gaines book.

Location

The route is actually easy to access. The easiest way is to ascend the 5.2 East Buttress Gully which dead ends at a massive pine tree. Anchor off that for your belay and look up to your right. Its the obvious steep crack system. The other option is to link this climb with one of the other Buttress of Cracks Routes. If you do so, you'll have to traverse the East Buttress Ledge and climb up into the corner where the start is (makes for a fun two pitch adventure). Top out where Low Pressure and the Warm Up top out and do the 3rd class descent off the back around the corner from Shake Down. (Consult older guide book)

Protection

cams size small to #3