Grandpa Joe’s Direct

Start this route with a 3 bolt variation (11b) which continues up and left into a large flake and to a large pedestal (stance). This variation adds 40 feet of high quality face climbing. Alternatively, there is a 3rd class scramble around the corner to the left.

From the pedestal above the flake, place high gear (nuts and blue alien size) and punch it up to good finger locks (5.11) in a 50 foot splitter finger crack (mostly .4 and .5 Camalot).

Either stop at the anchor or continue past a bolt and through a small roof (11+) and up a crack to another bolted belay.

80m rope required to lower off.

From the "Staging area" at the base of the Sugar Cookie, start at the leftmost bolted line (of the three bolted lines) on the wall or scramble up 3rd class to the left to access a pedestal at the start of an obvious finger crack.

Doubles from purple Metolius to #2 Camalot