Kinnder Rooten

For overall ambience, see the Rotwand overview. Chris Archer said that this climb resembles aid climbing in that you're completely focused on the 4' directly in front of you and because the only way you'd fall is if something you were hanging on blew out on you, at which point you'd wonder if any of the mank your rope was clipped into would hold.

Rotwand technique: make a mental note from below of which future footholds are on the solidest rock. Time and time again I'd be looking down at a hold which looked solid from above but which I didn't trust because I didn't remember how its underside was attached.

Approach: up the slabby trough to just past a short, 5th class step. Belay at a flattish bowl where there is a tree about 20' away from the face. A decent 2" piece can be placed at the start for an anchor.

P1. 5.8-, 120'. Angle up right, aiming for a small tree about 40' up. The first 30' are the toughest. Pass the tree on its left after which the angle eases slightly. Pass a smaller tree on its right. You are aiming for a belay at a larger tree in a horizontal break. The rock improves in the last 30' feet until you reach the break which is a rubbly ledge. Belay at the tree which has 1" placements in solid rock. The climbing on this pitch is easy for the grade, but the leader will make it harder by devising combinations which use the solidest looking, not the biggest holds.

P2. 5.9-, 50'. This describes the way we went, which made a lot of sense but apparently is not the correct way. Weasel behind the tree, heading left to an obvious crack in whitish rock that resembles limestone. Up the crack for 10' and pull over a bulge (crux) with good pro in good rock. Move left slightly then head up an ill defined rib w/ easy climbing, decent rock and scant pro. Going straight up after pulling the bulge is about 9+ but has no pro.

Double wires from tiny to medium. Double cams from tiny to #2.5 Friend, single cams to #4.

Many quickdraws and long runners. Double ropes are a good idea as are Screamers.

There is lots of gear, but almost all of it is in suspect rock. Safety in numbers in the key. We didn't have quite enough gear, partiuclarly runners, which made the upper part of the first pitch more exciting than it had to be.