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Peak Mountain 3

Devil's Dream

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Description

"Climb a thin crack near the center of the wall to a bulge and then up to a tree." - D'Antonio,

Boulder Canyon Rock Climbs

Additional details: start at a lichen covered crack system just right of an obvious, left-facing dihedral. This is actually more toward the upper end of the wall. Locating the lone bolt for Racing the Sun, the route just uphill will help further. Head straight up to a small roof, then slightly left using a horizontal and then up to a shelf using the nice but short, left-leaning corner. From the center of the shelf, not the crack to left which is much harder, climb up highly featured rock with liebacking and smearing to the jugs on lip of upper ledge. Work left along the lip with better feet and a dirty flake to reach the tree.

The climbing is nice and varied. Expect a bit of spice due to lichen coverage, and a fall from the upper section would land you on the shelf.

Location

This is on Cob Rock's East Wall. To locate the East Wall, walk up and left along the base of the formation, eventually coming around a corner to reveal the small wall. See the description for additional details.

Protection

Micro-cams, small stoppers for the start, and a gray c4 at the base of the roof to protect the moves onto the midway shelf. I was not able to find worthwhile protection for the climbing above the shelf, but an ideal stopper and micro cam can be placed while standing on the shelf. The tree is solid.