Berg Heil Route

In the north side thin hand crack (5.10, 25m) to ledge. On this 5m to the right, over an overhang with a crack (C0) to presummit. Descend a bit, then jump over to a pillar in the notch. Hand crack (5.8, 20m) to ledge. Easy friction scrambling (3rd or 4th grade) up the slope to the summit. The summit register is just where the slopey rock ends and before the flat summit.

The route starts in the narrow north face of the northern pre-summit.

Decent: Scramble down the slope to the end of the hand crack. We abseiled down there from a knot sling to the pillar in the notch, as our bolting equipment was unsuitable. From the pillar abseil (rope across pillar and abseil simultaneous on both sides or similar) to base of chimney, then climb down easy the last m to the ground.

A few #1 and #2 camalot, one #3 camalot, some long slings.