I F'ed a Mermaid

This fierce number begins with a brutal V11-ish boulder problem passing the first bolt. Above, the climbing eases to elegant, 5.12, technical face climbing capped by a steep, gymnastic finish. The rock is brilliant (even the pegmatite intrusions are solid and clean), and the movement is stellar. Unfortunately a few uncomfortably sharp grips in the intro and inconsistent difficulty detract from an otherwise classic experience.

Begin below a marble-like patch of pegmatite in the center of the east face. Burly, and at times painful, dynamic edging leads to a good clipping stance at a 1-pad flat edge just below the second bolt. Weave up to the slashing seam, and then follow this feature left and mantel onto the sloping Lonely Island Ledge. Edge and pinch over the steep headwall to reach big jugs and the summit.

This is the second bolted line from the right, climbing through a large patch of pegmatite at the start.

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip the 1st bolt.