Second Impressions Last Longer

Climb easily up a crack 20' to a nice ledge.  Watch the first moves off the ledge - they're thin and you are risking a ledge fall before clipping the first bolt.  A couple bolts and a flake protect the face section before a 15' traverse left at a horizontal that takes gear.  This will lead you to the real deal of the climb - a long, steep and difficult hand crack with very bad feet and few real rests.  The final 15' has a surprising slabby and heady crux with difficult gear.

Rock quality is overall good but some holds are suspect - we did have some hold breakage.  Part of the character of this route is definitely navigating which holds to use and how to use them.

I originally thought the route was going to be 5.6 face climbing with a 5.8 hand crack.  Turned out to be 5.9 face climbing with a 5.11 hand crack.  Hence the name.

The start of the route is just below a tree on the right side of a crack.  It is directly across from the Jack-in-the-box Conn route.

Two bolts, standard rack, micro cams, plus double or even triple rack of BD #0.5 - #3. A #4 was also nice but not necessary. Extendable draws to prevent rope drag. Sling a horn for anchor. Needles rap across summit. The backside of the spire is significantly shorter so I think you could even get off this route with a single 60m rope if you rappelled in the right spot.

Ethics: Ground-up, first bolt was drilled from hooks, second bolt from a free stance.