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Peak Mountain 3

Black Rain

FA Richard Rossiter, Leah Macaluso, Raoul Rossiter, 1998
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Black Rain is just to the right of

Jungle of Stone

, and shares the first bolt with that route. It follows a prominent black water streak.

Approach: From the upper end of the parking area across from the Boulderado, find some large boulders that practically span the creek. There is a large tree stump on the opposite side of the creek by these boulders. Wade the creek (or walk across the boulders in the fall) to the tree stump, and find a trail angling right up the talus, heading toward the Beer Can. Near the top of this trail, take a fork heading left toward Sleeping Beauty. Follow this trail downstream, below Sleeping Beauty, as far as you can, then zig-zag up a series of vegetated ledges, aiming for the leftmost area of climbable rock on Sleeping Beauty. You will eventually scramble up right to reach a ledge with three routes: Jungle of Stone (a right-facing corner capped by a roof), Black Rain (a black water streak just to the right of

Jungle of Stone

), and Water Spirit (a three-inch crack 40' right of Black Rain).

Begin behind a large pine tree close to the rock. Climb up 10' by mossy rock to the first bolt. Angle up right, heading for the black water streak. Follow the line of bolts up the water streak, with a 5.9 move at the third bolt and a 10b crux between the 5th and 6th bolts. Continue up to a small tree, and finish on a 5.8 slab with 3 more bolts to the anchor. The final slab and the anchor are shared with Jungle of Stone. Belay from a good ledge at the anchor. The climbing route is 130' long.

Rappel 110' with two ropes, or one 70m rope, back to the start. It may be possible to rappel with one 60m rope if you angle the rappel to higher ground on the right.

Two stars for sustained, interesting climbing.

Protection

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.